If you're looking to get started in silversmithing, you'll need a few fairly inexpensive essential tools to get started at your home studio (or maybe even in your bedroom -- we don't judge!).
After teaching beginners for over a decade, I've compiled a quick list of the MOST BASIC tools that anyone who is brand-new-to-jewelry-making should invest in.
I am a big fan of Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) , and have used them since the beginning. Amazon now has tons of options, now, too, and some big suppliers are using their platform as well. Euro tool (www.eurotool.com) is another great brand, and they have some of their items listed on Amazon as well. It can be a little confusing for beginners sometimes to know they're getting the 'right' version of some of these tools, so I'll try to make it obvious. My students have always appreciated direct links, so I am including some here!
BASIC BENCH TOOLS
*that will be everything you need to get started sawing out, texturing, and finishing sheet metal pieces
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A jeweler's saw: This is a hand-held saw with a fine-toothed blade that is used to cut metal. You'll also need some blades: 2/0, and 3/0 are good mid-range sizes that are fairly universal. You can get by with just one size to start if you'd like.
*Yes, it's different than a coping saw, and blades are smaller than jigsaw blades.
I like this set because it also gives you a bench pin that will fit lots of tables you may already have as well as a selection of different size blades to get started. - A bench pin: This is going to be your best friend for sawing, filing, and lots of other things you'll be doing. It clamps onto a desk, and there are simple versions like the one included above, and others with a little anvil surface included like this one. If you're feeling fancy, there's this one, too that includes a nice little hole for the ring mandrel (included here) that you're going to also be buying.
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A ring mandrel: A STEEL mandrel is what you want, with size indicators on it. Rio Grande has good ones I trust.
*Do yourself a favor, and please don't buy a cheap one from a random supplier. The sizes might be all wrong, and sizes are the whole point. -
A good, solid desk: A jeweler's bench (this one I purchased recently for students) is a fantastic purchase that will last a lifetime, but if the price is too steep when you're just starting out or aren't sure if you'll be a maker-for-life, any sturdy wooden desk will do. I strongly recommend putting your desk on blocks or modifying it to make it the ideal jeweler's bench height (this will feel a little strange at first, as you'll be working higher than usual).
I have had plenty of students work on benches like this with no issue. They're nice because they adjust to whatever height you want.
*The right height saves your back over time! - A universal file: A file is used to smooth and shape metal. You want a good brand, like this one. My favorite shape is that one, too, because you can work on almost anything if you have a flat side, a rounded side, and a taper. It's my favorite all-purpose file. It's the first one I reach for after almost 2 decades of metalsmithing.
- Sandpaper: Sandpaper grits you'll want are 220, 320, 400, 600, and possibly up to 800 or 1200. You can go even higher for better finishes, or can move to polishing around 600/800/1200 (varying opinions here). Wet/dry are nice, but regular sandpaper will do. Lower grits are optional, and can be good for putting back intentional 'rough' finishes, but various grits of scotchbrite and steel wool are really my favorite for matte and brushed finishes.
- A polishing solution: The splurge purchase here is a Flexible Shaft tool like a Foredom, or other reputable flexible shaft. The cheaper option is a dremel, but there are major differences in quality, lifespan, and usability.
NOTE: Flex shafts have two handpiece options, and 99% of my students prefer the one I linked to the other style that requires the same size shank on every single tool you put in it.
You'll actually do lots more with this than just polishing, but it does allow you to polish with tiny tools if you're not ready to invest in a large bench-top polishing unit like this one. You'll use this for drilling (instead of a drill press), sanding, texturing, polishing, and maybe eventually grow into stone setting and/or wax carving with it.
For polishing, specifically, you'll want little buff wheels and polishinhg compound. Get a variety pack of buffs and try them all -- different ones are good for different things and people vary on their favorites. I really like this newer compound from Rio that I switched to a couple of years ago when I was pregnant (it's got less sketchy ingredients). Also: Wear a MASK anyway, always, when polishing. I have used this one for years. You want it to cover small particulates (and maybe organic vapors depending on what all you'll be doing). The disposable 3M masks work, too, but they're actually a lot more uncomfortable. Believe it or not, the big one is the most comfortable in my experience.
*If you're thinking dremel, I would advise you not to. For not that much more, you can get a true professional version that'll last a lifetime and can be repaired. Dremels will die on you after a few years and you'll be buying a new one. They also aren't as well made and you can feel the difference when you're using them.
GETTING HOT! Starting SOLDERING
*tools and equipment necessary to start annealing, soldering, fusing, melting, and/or torch enameling
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A method of fume extraction: I can't emphasize how important this is, and it is critical when working with flux, solders, and inside enclosed spaces. You'll find lots of jewelers less concerned with this, but please don't be one of them. You can't take risks with things you might be breathing in.
This can be as simple as an open window and strategically placed strong fan (blowing everything AWAY from you, not past your face), or more complicated like a window unit installed backwards in a window to pull air through. There are also special units designed for this purpose you can invest in, ranging from inexpensive to last-you-a-lifetime one time professional purchases and even custom fabricated solutions. There are solutions at every price point, but make sure you do something. Here are a few straight forward compact options:
Benchtop fume extractor (www.RioGrande.com)
HAKKO Fume Extraction System (www.RioGrande.com)
Quatro Gold Vault (RioGrande)
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A soldering torch: A soldering torch can be used to anneal, melt solder, join parts, melt metal, torch enamel, and fuse metals. There are really only two torches I recommend: The Smith Air/Acetylene torch and the Smith Little Torch. The air/acetylene is a good beginner all purpose torch, and the little torch is two gasses and a little more complicated to work with, but a great choice for small delicate work and precision heating. Students usually begin with an air/acetylene and graduate up to a smith little torch, but there are always exceptions.
*I am linking options WITHOUT tanks on both of these, because I have had numerous students have issues with shipping and/or filling the small tanks rio sells. Find a welding supply store near you that can supply you with tank(s). They might also be cheaper.
*propane vs acetylene (little torch option only): propane can be easier to get and refill and 'burns cleaner', but acetylene gets hotter. I prefer acetylene, but if you don't have a convenient welding supply store, propane might be for you.
*There are folks out there recommending handheld butane torches, mapp gas, and other hobbyist/Creme Brulé style torches, but I field a lot of questions for students who are trying to use these without success. I cannot speak from personal experience with using any of these torches, but typically the issues my students have revolve around the inability for the torch to get hot enough.
- Flashback Arrestors / Backflow Preventers: I made it past graduate school before anyone ever told me these existed. Seriously! I put them on EVERY SINGLE tank I have, now. They're cheap and there's no reason not to. Peace of mind is worth it. These little guys go on your regulator or in-line with your hoses and prevent a flame from ever entering the tank if it ever manages to run down the hose. I'm sure it's a very rare occurence, but I'm not taking any chances. I recommend these to everyone. Make sure you get the right one for the gas(es) you're using. Your welding supply store can also supply these!
- Flux: I prefer Grifflux to Handy Flux because it has no free flourides. Flux will be used to keep your metal clean while you solder.
- Soldering picks, a soldering surface, tweezers and small side cutters: You can make your own picks from old metal clothes hangers by grinding a little point on one end, or you can buy them. Soldering surfaces should be designed for the purpose so that they don't shatter. You can use pans filled with pumice rocks, or little soldering bricks. I have and use both regularly. Some people prefer a honeycomb type of brick, but I don't find one better than the other. Get a few soldering tweezers and a pair of side cutters to use just for solder. A third hand is also super handy for beginners with helping to hold things while you heat!
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Silver Solder: You'll get this from Rio, and you'll want to buy a little bit of each of the three main different melting temperatures: hard, medium, and easy. I like the wire style solder, not the paste or chips, but that's a topic for another day!
*This is NOT the same as any solders you can buy at a hardware store (or plumbing solder)! Don't do it and think it'll be ok. - Pickling solution & Copper Tongs: Pickling solution is used to remove scale and flux from metal after heating. Citric Acid in water makes a less toxic version of some other chemical options like Sparex. I used PH down, a pool chemical, as a sparex alternative for years before switching to citric acid to make my studio less toxic.
- Safety Glasses: Safety glasses are important to protect your eyes from the heat and sparks of the soldering torch (and other things you do when not soldering, too). Technically, you should wear shaded glasses when soldering, although I personally know no jewelers who follow this rule regularly.
- A fire-proof surface to work on: This can be on your other bench if you want, but I would recommend a sheet of steel or large tile/ceramic bricks base layer underneath your soldering bricks. Don't put a soldering brick directly on a wood table for obvious reasons.
Once you have these basic tools, you'll be able to start creating your own jewelry!
You'll also need some basic materials, such as silver sheet and wire. You can find these materials at a local jewelry supply store (if you're lucky enough to live somewhere that has one!) or online. RioGrande, again, is a great supplier to start with.
I strongly recommend taking lessons with someone near you, taking a reputable online course, or traveling for a workshop or private lesson when you're first starting out. There is a wealth of free information online these days, but not all of it is good or accurate information, and I've even see some scary and dangerous stuff students have shown me from youtube.
I hope this blog post has been helpful! If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me an email.
I am feeling generous, so feel free to also let me know what other questions/topics might be helpful for you and I just might post or make a video about them!